WATERING SCHEDULES AND CHRISTMAS CACTI
by Curtis Smith, Ph.D.
Q. A friend asked me to look on the computer for any information
regarding what to do for a fig tree in the winter. We live in zone 6.
I'm
not sure if this tree is in the ground or potted. Any information would
be
appreciated.
A. I assume you are asking about edible figs, not ornamental figs and
will provide an answer appropriate for the edible figs.
While figs will grow in New Mexico as far north as Albuquerque, that is
pushing their limits. Albuquerque is in hardiness zone 7 as determined
from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's hardiness zone map. I am not
aware of figs growing further north in New Mexico. However, in a protected
courtyard, it is possible that they will grow in colder climates.
In zone 6 a protected location shielding the tree from the coldest weather
and where the soil doesn't freeze would increase the chances of the tree's
survival. It may freeze to the ground many winters, but if it is a
variety
that bears on the current season's growth, it will still produce
figs. There are other varieties that produce on older growth. These will
not produce figs if they freeze to the ground.
It is possible to wrap the tree with insulating material after the weather
has turned cold and the fig tree has lost its leaves. This must be done
with special care. If it warms inside the protection, the tree may begin
growing and suffer severe damage in the next cold spell. This protective
material must be removed while it is still cold to avoid the situation
described above. The tree will begin to lose dormancy when the weather
warms and be very subject to damage once the material is removed if the
timing is not good. You must also be prepared to replace the covering
quickly if late, extremely cold weather is expected.
A potted tree may be easier to grow. Once it is dormant, it can tolerate
some freezing and doesn't need light. What must be avoided is extreme
swings in temperature and excessive warming. The tree may be stored in a
cold garage in which the temperatures range from below freezing to a
little
above freezing. It will need to be watered as the soil dries but will need
little additional care until the weather warms.
Q. Are snails and slugs a problem throughout the U.S.A.?
Alden
A. The answer depends on the context of your question. Snails and
slugs are a problem in landscapes and gardens in much of the U.S. In the
natural environment, they are not as great a problem. Here in New Mexico,
they cause problems only where we irrigate and have imported them in the
soil of our landscape and garden plants. I don't remember any problems
with snails and slugs when I lived in Montana. Perhaps that was due to
the
cold winters, but the lack of any problems may have been because fewer
imported plants from snail- and slug-infested areas were used in
landscapes. So, I can answer from the context of New Mexico. They are a
problem in our irrigated landscapes and gardens. In the desert, they are
not a problem. Perhaps Extension Service people in other states could
answer for their states.
Q. I was stacking pinon firewood the other day and noticed a lot of
sawdust
and small insects. Is this something to be concerned about?
A. The sawdust may indicate the presence of pine bark beetles. It
may
also
indicate borers. The insects you saw may or may not indicate a problem
because
there are many insects that will inhabit firewood piles. Many of the
insects
in the firewood are benign. The bark beetles are the greatest concern.
If you peel the bark from the wood and find “engravings”, the
tunneling
patterns left by bark beetles as they feed on the layer just under the
bark,
you have a concern. Borers will also leave engraving marks, but they
are
usually broader tunnels. You may also find the adults of these insects.
Your
County Extension Agent can help you
identify what insects you have found and if they will be a problem. It is
the
bark beetle that is the greater threat to your landscape trees.
To be safe, stack firewood away from pine trees in a sunny
location.
Cover the firewood with clear plastic and seal the edges with soil if
the
firewood is showing signs of recent insect activity (fresh sawdust).
This
covering with clear plastic in a sunny location will allow the heat from
sunlight to kill the beetles, and it will also contain the beetles keeping
them
from infesting your nearby landscape trees.
Covering the firewood with plastic will interfere with the
curing
of the
firewood, so after a month or two uncover the firewood to allow it to
cure
before burning. Cured firewood may have borers but will not have active
bark
beetles and will not need to be covered. When possible buy aged, cured
firewood.
Q. For the past several years I have wondered if there is a way to
keep my
ornamental (flowering) fruit trees from making fruit. The fruit is not
edible
but makes a mess. Is there something I can spray to eliminate the fruit
problem?
A. There is a product called a fruit eliminator which is labeled to
prevent
or at least reduce fruit production on a large number of ornamental trees.
It
functions by producing ethylene gas, a naturally occurring plant hormone
that
can cause immature fruit to drop if applied when the fruit are very small
(just
following flowering). It will not be effective if applied later.
I have seen it promoted by some horticultural supply retailers in
New
Mexico, so I suspect you can find this product in the state. Be sure to
read
the label to determine if it is labeled for your types of fruit trees.
Then be
certain to follow the directions when using the fruit eliminator.
Q. Our pinon tree is dripping sap in large amounts. The tree grows
over our
flagstone patio, and the patio is covered with a fine spray of sap or
pitch. Is
there anything we can or should do to prevent this?
via internet
Santa Fe
A. I suspect that the problem is pine aphids because you described
the
problem as a fine spray. The aphids that would be on your pinon look
like
clusters of small spiders on the branches (they have longer legs than
most
aphids and look like spiders). They feed on the sap from the tree and
excrete
a sugary substance called "honey dew." The honey dew is the fine spray
that
you are seeing on the patio. The answer to this problem is to reduce
the
number of aphids on the branches. You can use insecticides, but in many
cases
washing the branches of the pinon with a strong jet of water will knock
the
aphids out of the tree. The aphids will try to climb back into the tree,
but
many will not succeed. If you wash the branches frequently (once a week
or
so), you can reduce the population of aphids enough to control the
problem. By
the way, the reduced number of aphids will do little damage to the tree,
so
washing should be sufficient to solve the problem.
Q. What will happen to leaves I put into my compost this fall? Will
they
wait until spring when it gets warmer to decompose?
A. If you add green grass clippings, manure, or some other source
of
nitrogen to the leaves, they will decompose through the winter. The heat
in
the compost is generated by the composting organisms; it does not come
from the
air. Of course, the air may cool the compost and slow the decomposition
process around the edges of the compost, but the center should generate
enough
heat to continue composting through the winter.
This depends on the balance of materials in the compost. A source
of
nitrogen, such as green grass clippings or manure, should be mixed with
a
source of carbon such as brown leaves or shredding branch trimmings.
The
nitrogen and carbon are the foods needed by the composting organisms such
as
fungi and bacteria. They will generate heat and decompose the landscape
debris
so that in the spring you will have a supply of compost to add to your
garden
as a soil conditioner.
Just remember that you will need to supply moisture to the compost
and
to turn the compost materials through the winter.
Send your gardening questions to:
Yard and Garden, ATTN: Dr. Curtis
Smith
NMSU Cooperative Extension Service
9301 Indian School Road,
NE, Suite 112
Albuquerque, NM 87112